I worked in an anechoic chamber in college testing composite panels. There are some guys over there who have coffin quiet cars.Ĭlick to expand.Looks like their marketing department is doing a good job Go ahead and take their word over people who know what they are talking about. Good luck, and dont give up! My car is damned quiet compared to what it used to be, and i have a ****-ton of poly bushingsįOR REALLY GOOD INFO ON ALL OF THIS STUFF GO TO DIYMA FORUMS AND DO SOME SEARCHING.
#MASS LOADED VINYL VS DYNAMAT FREE#
You want your dynamat to be a solid panel.įOAM/closed cell/egg crating/mineral wool will do very little to knock down noise without a mass loaded substrate.įeel free to check out my previous post on some of the things I did to my GR: The trick is to close off every hole under the door card that you can. Or you can do like me and do Dynamat then Foam then MLV.
A decoupler (FOAM) followed by dynamat will work wonders in the doors. It keeps panels from transmitting vibration and it has a fair bit off mass so it knocks down a fair amount of sonic energy.
The sound gets trapped and absorbed by the air gap + mass.ĭynamat/Raamat works dual duty. What you need to do is lay down an air gap first (a decoupler) followed by something with a lot of mass like MLV or in a pinch dynamat or lead foil. If you lay dynamat directly on the panel, it will transmit noise as well. Road noise reaches the panels which in turn re-transmit it. The way this works is acoustic energy is generated and transmittied by body panels in your car. Likewise do the same for the trunk/hatch area. Ask anyone knowledgable in acoustics, anechoic chambers, or high end home/auto stereo systems.īuy some Mass loaded vinyl (MLV) Pull up the carpet, put a layer down of closed cell foam like Ensolite (a decoupler) and then lay down MLv on every square inch of the floor. Carpet foam is kind of heavy so might work KINDA OK. Dunno what it is and I'm tired of pulling the door cards off to figure out what it is or where it's coming from.Ĭlick to expand.Yes, pull the hatch panels and wrap all that **** up in tape or single stick foam :tup:įoam in general WILL NOT eliminate NVH. I will say, though, that after I Dynamatted and Frost Kinged my front doors, I have a clicking noise whenever I open them. I'm not sure I will tackle the firewall, since that will more than likely involve removal of the entire dash. I'll probably pick up more Dynamat and do the rest of the car - back seats, rear doors, roof and maybe some of the floor pan. There was an equivalent reduction of exhaust drone and now I can sort of make out what my speakers are doing when listening to music. I also covered those weird black metal things between the rear seats and the spare tire with Dynamat/Frost King. So I put down 1 and a half sheets down in the spare tire area and hatch along with some Frost King duct insulation I found at Lowes for ~$20. I had some leftover Dynamat from the "extreme" door kit I bought off of amazon (for $48 shipped!) after doing my front doors. Breathing in the insulation will probably do bad things to my health in the long run, so I removed the insulation from the spare wheel area but left some stuffed in the sides of the hatch. However, I was constantly reminded that fiberglass insulation is not good for your health, especially since the car is essentially a sealed box. I stuffed the spare wheel and the side "pockets" of the hatch with this insulation and it did a pretty damn good job of killing the drone of my Greddy SE exhaust. My previous attempt at ridding my car of drone consisted of fiberglass attic insulation from Lowes as recommended by a member on iwsti.
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